During the six years that I was lucky enough to live in the center of Paris, I learned a lot about the ups and downs that come with being a Parisienne.
I would move back in a heartbeat. But I also feel for international visitors who arrive with a romantic vision of beautiful perfection, only to suffer a severe shock — known as “Paris Syndrome” — when they learn otherwise.
Never let that deter you from visiting though. Instead, know what to expect before you visit.
Where are the Parisians?
The end of July usually sees an exodus of Parisians, with many relocating to their summer residences for the entire month of August. Bakeries are closed, as are restaurants, and shops have a “Fermé” (closed) sign in the window.
More restaurants and stores will be open in August to host the millions of visitors attending the Summer Olympic Games.
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But this summer, many businesses and restaurants plan to take full advantage of the 11 million visitors expected to visit the city for the 2024 Summer Olympic Games. Instead of closing in August, many restaurants and stores are planning a short break, between the closing ceremony on Aug. 11 and the start of the Paralympic Games on Aug. 28.
Getting in — and getting around
Parisian public transport is famously reliable — unless workers go on strike. To prevent problems, talks are being held to prevent transportation strikes during the Games.
But beware of arriving on July 26, the day of the Games’ opening ceremony, when a no-fly zone across the airspace of Paris will prevent planes from taking off or landing for some six hours, according to the Associated Press.
A woman rides a Velib bicycle past a rental station alongside the river Seine. Paris has ramped up cycling paths and bicycle parking spaces ahead of the Summer Olympic Games, as part of an effort to make the city a cyclist-friendly metropolis.
Kiran Ridley | Getty Images News | Getty Images
If the metro is overloaded, consider renting a bike. There are around 20,000 Velib bikes in the city, with many available at major street corners. Since some roads will be closed to vehicles during the Games, it will be a safer time to pedal around the city.
If speed is key, one of the most exhilarating ways to get around Paris is by motorbike taxi. I once found myself at the Gare de Lyon railway station, en route to Spain, when I realized I had forgotten my passport. So I hopped on the back of a motorbike, and my driver weaved his way through the traffic, waited while I ran up to my apartment, and deposited me back at the station before my train departed.
Speak a bit of the language
Paris’ famously rude waiters are much more approachable if you greet them first. Say “bonjour” and try to order in French. And pleasantries like “s’il vous plait” (please) and “merci” (thank you) don’t hurt either.
This is true when approaching any French person. It took me a while to figure out why supermarket staff ignored me when I asked where to locate certain items. Then I realized I hadn’t greeted them first. A simple “bonjour” did the trick.
Finally, don’t ever call a waiter “garçon” (boy). A relic of the past, this is considered extremely rude now.
Eating out
Eating out in Paris can be expensive, especially at one of the city’s 121 Michelin-starred restaurants. To save money, go for lunch instead of dinner. Most restaurants in Paris have a three-course prix fixe lunch menu.
A planche, or platter of cheese, meat and fruit, is an economical and quick Parisian lunch.
Elena Noviello | Moment | Getty Images
Another budget-friendly meal is a planche, a platter of cuts of meats and cheese, with endless baskets of baguette. If you have a sweet tooth, order a café gourmand, which is coffee with a selection of sweet treats, often for the same price of one dessert.
And don’t just ask for “water” because you will get expensive bottled water. Instead ask for a “carafe d’eau,” and you’ll get chilled tap water, which is free and perfectly drinkable in Paris. And remember to bring a refillable bottle; there are free drinking water fountains across the city.
Cool down without air conditioning
Paris gets hot in the summer. But visitors are often surprised to learn that air conditioning isn’t common in the city. Many older residential buildings and smaller hotels don’t have it.
However, museums are usually kept comfortably crisp — if for the art, not its viewers.
Square du Vert-Galant at sunset.
Pawel.gaul | E+ | Getty Images
To beat the heat without electricity, seek out places that are naturally cool. My favorite spot is the Square du Vert-Galant, a small park at the tip of the Île de la Cité island in the river Seine, where you can sit under a willow tree, as Ernest Hemingway did.
Otherwise, splash your face in the large fountain on Place Saint-Michel in the Latin Quarter. Nobody bats an eyelid if you dip your hands in the historic fountain there.
Escape from the city
Consider a quick break from Paris and her crowds, but one that doesn’t require going very far.
Take the RER A, one of five lines on the city’s Réseau Express Régional trainline, from Charles de Gaulle-Etoile station to Saint-Germain-en-Laye station, and walk through the park outside the castle where Louis XIV was born. Its high vantage point provides views across all of Paris.
Bois de Vincennes, located on the eastern side of Paris, has boat rides, walking trails and playgrounds for children.
Christophe Lehenaff | Moment | Getty Images
Or take the Metro Line 1 to Château de Vincennes, an imposing medieval castle. From there you can step into the Bois de Vincennes, a forest full of lakes, walking trails and picnic areas, but where, during the week, there are no crowds.
Disclosure: CNBC parent NBCUniversal owns NBC Sports and NBC Olympics. NBC Olympics is the U.S. broadcast rights holder to all Summer and Winter Games through 2032.
